Lesson video

Hello, thank you for joining me for design and technology lesson.

My name is Mrs. Conway, and I will be guiding you through your learning today.

So today's lesson outcome is, I can explain and compare small-scale and industrial deforming processes.

And these are our key words.

We have deform, force, automation, and former.

I'll go through each one of these in more detail as we work through the lesson.

So the first thing we're going to look at is small scale deforming processes.

To deform means to change the shape or structure of a textile material using a force.

And this can involve pulling, pushing, folding, heating, compressing, or gathering fabric.

And deforming is done to either create visual or textual effects and to add functionality such as stretch or compression.

So pleating is an example of a deforming process, and pleating involves folding fabric into even shapes and securing them with heat or stitching.

They are often used in skirts and dresses and there are different types.

So here's an example of a knife pleat.

Here's an example of a box pleat, and here's an example of an accordion pleat, each one giving a very different feel and look to the skirt.

If we look at it in a little bit more detail, you can see how these have been achieved.

So here's the example of the knife pleat and the folding that's occurred here and the box pleat.

And lastly, the accordion pleat.

When you actually see it close up like this, you can really see the difference in the way that that material has been folded.

Gathering is a different process again, and gathering involves sewing parallel stitches and then pulling the thread to bunch the fabric and create shape.

Here's the example of what this looks like on a garment, and in this example, this is the cuff of a sleeve.

Ruching is very similar to this, but it's often done in multiple rows for a really decorative effect as you can see in the bodice of that dress.

Smocking is another example of a deforming process.

Now smocking is a decorative stitching technique that gathers fabric while adding stretch and flexibility.

There are many styles of pattern which is used for smocking and they're often used on things like cuffs, bodices and necklines, where the extra stretch is sometimes needed.

Historically, smocking was used before elastics were available, and here are some examples of the patterns that are used for smocking and here you can see it used in a garment, and this is where you might start to recognize this or have seen this previously.

Here are some smocking on a bodice which allows for the stretch in that bodice, and this is what it looks like more closeup, and you can see those patterns and how it's been stitched in to allow for that stretch.

Okay, quick check for understanding on this then.

Which of the following deforming techniques involves decorative stitching that also creates stretch? Is it A, pleading, B, gathering, C, smoking, or D, ruching? Pause the video here.

Just take a moment to think about your answer.

How did you get on? The correct answer was C, smocking.

So smocking involves decorative stitching that helps to create a stretch.

Now crinkles can be intentionally added to fabric to create texture.

Here we have some boiled shibori, which is a technique where objects like coins are tiled into synthetic fabric, then boiled.

The heat causes the fabric to hold the shape permanently.

Shibori can also be used as a dye-resist technique as well that also deforms the fabric through binding, twisting, or folding.

Felt can be deformed into three-dimensional shapes by using a process called blocking.

Now the felt is either steamed or soaked in hot water and that makes it pliable and allows it to then be stretched over a former.

A former is a solid object that a material is manipulated around to create a specific shape.

The felt is then pinned onto the former and left to dry, and once it's dry, it then retains that shape and this is the way that hats are usually made.

Here's an example of this.

You can see the former underneath there and that is making the shape of the hat.

You then have the felt that is draped over the former and pinned into place.

The excess is trimmed and removed.

Once it's dry, it will then hold that shape.

Leather can also be deformed into three-dimensional shapes by using a process called wet-forming.

The leather is left to soak in water to make it pliable.

A bit like the felt was.

It's then draped and pinned over a former.

Again, a bit like the felt.

A frame can also be used over the former to help force it into its final shape.

When the leather dries, it then retains its new shape.

Now products like cases and bags are made using this method, and here's an example of what this looks like.

The leather can be draped and pinned over that former, but a frame can also be used to really help lock that shape in.

Okay, quick check for understanding on that then.

What is a former used for? Is it A, cutting fabric into identical shapes? B, shaping a material into a specific form.

C, hardening the surface of a material or D, decorating fabric after shaping.

Pause the video here.

Just take a moment to think about your answer.

And the correct answer it was B, so a former is used to shape a material into a specific form.

Well done again, if you got that right.

Now there are benefits and limitations to deforming fabrics on a small scale.

Let's have a closer look at these then.

So some of the benefits can be that you can get custom designs.

They can also be done with minimal tools.

They're suitable for prototyping and ideal for any experimentation.

However, the limitations to this in a small scale is that it can be quite time consuming.

It does require skill and also expertise.

It's incredibly labor intensive and there are larger amounts of waste than if we were doing this larger scale or mass manufacturing it.

Again, let's just do a quick check on that then.

Which of the following is a limitation of small scale deforming processes? A, requires minimal tools and equipment, B, suitable for one-off and prototype work.

C, allows for creative experimentation, or D, time consuming and labor intensive.

Remember, you are picking out a limitation of small scale deforming processes.

Pause the video here.

Just take a moment to think about what the answer could be.

And the correct answer it was D.

So a limitation of small scale deforming is time consuming and also labor intensive.

It's going to be over to you now to have a go at a few tasks.

The first thing I'd like you to do is to define the term deform in relation to textile processes.

The second thing then I'd like you to then describe one benefit and one limitation of using small scale deforming techniques in textiles.

The third task is to compare smocking and gathering in terms of purpose and also technique.

And lastly, I'd then like you to draw a diagram to explain how wet forming is used in textiles and name one suitable material for that.

Okay, pause the video here to have a go at these four tasks and good luck.

Right, how did you get on with those tasks? The first thing I asked you to do then was to define the term deform in relation to textile processes.

Let's just look an example answer for this.

So de deform means to change the shape of a textile using a force, heat, or stitching.

Okay, your answer may be slightly different or phrased slightly different.

Just check you've got the key points there.

The second thing I asked you to do was to describe one benefit and one limitation of using small scale deforming techniques in textiles.

A model answer for you here then, a benefit is the high level of design control and uniqueness.

A limitation is that it is time consuming and not suitable for higher volume production.

Again, you may have picked out different examples of a limitation and also benefit here.

That's fine, just check that you've got that right and your understanding is correct from the previous slides.

The next thing I asked you to do then was to compare smocking and gathering in terms of purpose and technique.

Let's have a look at an example answer again.

Gathering involves pulling thread to bunch fabric for fit, while smocking adds decorative stitches that also allow stretch and structure.

Smocking is more complex and decorative.

Some really good points made there.

Just compare that to your answer.

Have you included all those key points? And lastly, I asked you to draw a diagram to explain how wet forming is used in textiles and name one suitable material for wet forming.

An example answer here then, wet forming involves soaking leather to make it flexible, shaping it over a former and allowing it to dry in place.

It is often used for making accessories or cases.

And here you can see some diagrams. Just check that you've included the key messages in those diagrams that you can see the leather that's draped over a former and also that you may have also included a frame that can be used as well.

Next we're going to look at industrial deforming processes.

So we've looked at small scale.

Let's move that up to industrial now.

So in industry, deforming processes must be fast, accurate, repeatable, automation where it's possible can help with this.

Automation can also save time and labor costs, ensure consistent quality.

Now this ensures that manufacturers can keep up with changing trends and also consumer demand.

Let's have a look at this knife pleat.

Now the knife pleat on the skirt pictured have been deformed with heat.

And as this fabric is a synthetic polymer, e.

g.

polyester, the heat alone is enough to help keep its shape.

In an industrial setting, continuous length of fabric can be pleated mechanically, and then heat set.

And you can see an example of that in the diagram.

The fabric is fed in, a unit has specialized rollers that pleat and then heat set the fabric and then a continuous fabric length can be cut to size and pattern.

Quick check for understanding on that then, which type of fiber is best suited to heat set pleats in industrial production? Is it A linen, B cotton, C polyester, or D silk? Pause video here just to think about your answer.

And the correct answer, it was C polyester.

Well done if you got that right.

Now sewing machines can be modified for industrial use to remove the need for things like measuring and pinning, which can be very time consuming for high volume production.

Now one example is with box pleats, sewing machines can have additional attachments to sew pleated fabric that are precise and finished to a high standard.

If we have a look at the example here of the sewing machine.

So here we have an unmodified sewing machine and an oscillating mechanism is added with the gearbox housed at the back and an angled presser foot is also added.

A pleating attachment is added to the mechanism and the entire mechanism oscillates back and forth.

When fabric is introduced, the mechanism folds the fabric against the angled presser foot and the needle stitches the fold in place to create a pleat.

The mechanism swings back to create another pleat, and then the process continues.

Now fabric can be deformed by exposing them to chemicals to create a permanent crinkled surface.

Sodium hydroxide is commonly used to create a textured surface on fashion garments and furnishings.

Quick check for understanding on that then.

True or false, chemical crinkle techniques can be used to temporarily alter fabric.

Is that true or false? Pause the video here.

Just take a moment to think about your answer.

And the correct answer, it is false.

So chemicals create a permanent change to a fabric structure so it's not temporary.

Now felt blocking can be done on an industrial scale.

The equipment used is more specialized to cope with the demands of high volume manufacture and it can do this quickly and accurately.

Now felt can be shaped over formers by force using hydraulic presses for a neater finish.

Now, foam provides comfort and support in many textile products such as shoe inserts and also inside helmets like bike helmets.

Now, compression molding is a technique used to deform foams into all ergonomic shapes.

It is highly accurate process that can create complex shapes as the same former is used, it is repeatable with exact results.

Here are some examples of products that've been made using this process.

So there you've got some shoe inserts, theater seating, and also boxing gloves.

They contain molded foam for comfort.

Now the process of compression molding is as follows.

First, you have a sheet or block of foam that is placed into a two part former.

The two part former has a positive former and a negative former, and you can see that the foam is in between those two.

The former is then heated and compressed, forcing the foam that was in the middle into the former's shape.

It forces it between the positive former and the negative former, and then the foam is cooled while inside the former, and that helps to set the shape permanently.

The part is then removed from the former and trimmed down to the correct size.

Okay, quick check for understanding on that.

What is the purpose of compression molding in industrial textile processes? Is it A, to permanently shape foam using heat and pressure, B to dye fabric by folding and binding, C, to gather lightweight fabric for shape or D to sew foam into decorative layers? Pause the video here just to take a moment to think about your answer.

And the correct answer was A, the purpose of compression molding in industrial textile processes is to permanently shape foam using heat and pressure.

Now, there are benefits and limitations to deforming fabrics on an industrial scale.

Let's look at those in a bit more detail.

So the benefits are that it is high speed.

The automation should reduce errors and it is cost effective at scale.

The limitations, however, are that you have less design flexibility.

The materials must suit the specific machines and there are high setup costs involved.

Okay, another check for understanding here.

Which of the following is a limitation of industrial deforming processes? Is it A, fast production speed? B, high levels of consistency, C, suitable for high volume production or D, expensive setup and machinery.

Once again, pause the video here just to take a moment to think about your answer.

And the correct answer was D.

So there is an expensive setup of the machinery and that is a limitation of industrial deforming processes.

Okay, it's going to be over to you now to have a go at a few more tasks.

The first thing I'd like you to do then is to name one industrial deforming process and describe how it works.

Next, I'd like you to give one advantage and one disadvantage or a limitation and a benefit of industrial deforming.

I'd then like you to explain how automation affects industrial deforming processes.

And lastly, I'd like you to have a go at drawing a diagram to explain how compression molding is used in textiles and name one product made using this process.

Okay, it's going to be over to you now.

So pause the video here to have a go at these four tasks and good luck.

Right how did you get on? Hopefully you found those tasks okay.

So the first thing I asked you to do then was to name one industrial deforming process and describe how it works.

So let's go through an example answer.

Heat set pleating involves folding synthetic fabric like polyester and applying heat to permanently fix the pleats in place using a machine.

You may have picked a different deforming process to describe here, but if you did pick heat set pleating, just compare your answer.

If you pick something else, check it with your teacher or someone else in the room just to make sure you've got all the key points.

I asked you to give one advantage and one disadvantage of industrial deforming.

An example answer here, an advantage is that output is fast and consistent.

A disadvantage is that it requires expensive equipment and setup.

Again, you may have picked different examples to include here.

The third task then I asked you to explain how automation affects industrial deforming processes.

So the example answer explains automation increases the speed and accuracy of deforming processes, it reduces the need for manual labor and ensures consistent results.

Just compare your answer to that one and check you've got those key points included.

And lastly, I asked you to draw a diagram to explain how compression molding is used in textiles and name one product made using this process.

Have a little look at these diagrams and just check that you've included all the key elements of it.

You have the example of a positive former and a negative former with the foam in between.

And then your next diagram shows how that positive and negative former have been pushed together or compressed, and the foam has changed shape between those two parts.

Hopefully you've also explained each stage of that as well before the last part, which is the cutting down of the actual material.

Let's summarize today's lesson then.

Today we've been looking at deforming manufacturing processes for textiles.

Now to deform means to change the shape of fabric using a force.

Small scale methods use hand tools.

They are slow, but creative.

Industrial methods use machines and automation.

They are fast and repeatable, and formers can be used to ensure consistency.

Well done for all of your hard work in today's lesson.

Thank you so much for joining me, and I will see you soon.