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      Wave processes at the coast

      Lesson details

      Learning outcome

      I can explain how wave processes shape the coast.

      Key learning points

      1. Different wave types (constructive and destructive) affect the coast.
      2. The coast is shaped by processes of erosion (hydraulic power, abrasion and attrition).
      3. The coast is shaped by transportation (longshore drift) of sediment.
      4. The coast is shaped by deposition.

      Keywords

      • Waves - ripples in the sea caused by wind blowing over the surface of the water

      • Erosion - the action of water wearing away rocks

      • Destructive waves - high, steep waves, typically formed by local storms, that remove sediment from beaches

      • Constructive waves - low waves, typically formed by distant storms, that deposit sediment onto beaches

      Common misconception

      Swash is when a wave moves down the beach to the sea and backwash is when a wave moves up the beach from the sea.

      The swash is the movement of the wave from the sea to the beach which brings sediment with it. Whereas the backwash is the movement of the wave from the beach to sea.

      Teacher tip

      The lesson in this unit called 'Using GIS to visualise the impact of physical and human processes on coasts' could be used to extend this lesson.

      Licence

      This content is © Oak National Academy Limited (2026), licensed on Open Government Licence version 3.0
      except where otherwise stated. See Oak's terms & conditions
      (Collection 2).

      Lesson video

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      Prior knowledge starter quiz

      6 Questions

      Q1.
      Match the terms to the correct definition.

      Correct Answer:waves,the movement of water caused by wind blowing across the sea
      Correct Answer:cliff,a steep rock face along the coast
      Correct Answer:beach,an area of sand or pebbles along the shore
      Correct Answer:headland,a part of the coastline that extends into the sea
      Correct Answer:bay,a sheltered area of water, often between two headlands

      Q2.
      Climate change today is caused by human activities that increase gas levels in the atmosphere.

      Correct Answer: greenhouse

      Q3.
      What is the main factor that creates the waves we see at the seaside?

      gravity pulling on Earth's water
      tides moving up and down the shore
      Correct answer: wind blowing over the surface of the sea
      earthquakes under the sea floor
      people driving boats in the sea

      Q4.
      Which of the following is the UK's longest river?

      River Thames
      Correct answer: River Severn
      River Trent
      River Clyde

      Q5.
      What process does 'the wearing away of rocks by water' describe?

      weathering
      mass movement
      transportation
      Correct answer: erosion

      Q6.
      In which part of the UK is Ben Nevis, the UK's highest mountain, located?

      England
      Northern Ireland
      Wales
      Correct answer: Scotland

      4 Questions

      Q1.
      Identify the answer that correctly describes constructive waves.

      Correct answer: Constructive waves have a stronger swash than backwash and build up beaches.
      Constructive waves have equal swash and backwash, maintaining beach levels.
      Constructive waves have a stronger backwash than swash and erode the coastline.
      Constructive waves occur mostly during storms and erode the beach rapidly.
      Constructive waves break frequently and move material offshore from beaches.

      Q2.
      Longshore is a process by which sediment is transported along coastlines.

      Correct Answer: drift

      Q3.
      What erosion process does the statement 'rocks and sediment collide and break into smaller and smoother pieces' describe?

      Hydraulic power
      Abrasion
      Correct answer: Attrition

      Q4.
      What factors will determine the strength of a wave?

      Correct answer: Wind speed
      Correct answer: Fetch
      Water temperature
      Correct answer: Wind duration

      To help you plan your 10 geography lesson on: Wave processes at the coast, download all teaching resources for free and adapt to suit your pupils' needs...